The Key to Great Skin – pH balance

The Key to Great Skin – pH balance

There's one condition to blame for everything from zits to wrinkles, but most people don't even know think about it. It is an out-of-whack pH level. The fix: Determine your skin's status so you can even things out--and achieve a radiant complexion

The Acid Mantle

Our skin is naturally designed to fight infection and environmental stresses and its ability to do so is affected by its pH level. As a reminder, pH stands for "potential hydrogen" and is used to describe the acid-alkaline ratio of a substance. Thus, the pH level of the skin refers to how acidic or alkaline it is. On a scale of 1-14, with 1 being the most acidic to 14 being the most alkaline, 7 is considered a neutral reading for your skin's pH. Our skin has a thin, protective layer on its surface which acts as a barrier, referred to as the acid mantle. This is responsible for keeping in lipids and moisture while blocking germs, pollution, toxins, and bacteria. This acid mantle is made up of sebum (free fatty acids) excreted from the skin's sebaceous glands, which mixes with lactic and amino acids from sweat to create the skin's pH, which ideally should be slightly acidic - at about 5.5.

Disturbing the Acid Mantle

The skin looks and works best at the ideal pH balance of 5.5. If you throw this off by using the wrong products or eating the wrong foods then your dermis will let you know it is cross with you via wrinkles, inflammation, extreme sensitivity, or acne.

For instance, when it's too alkaline, skin becomes dry and sensitive. You may also experience inflammation, which inhibits the skin's ability to ward off matrix metalloproteinases [MMPs], the enzymes that destroy collagen and cause wrinkles and sagging. People with an alkaline stratum corneum (the skin's outermost layer) are more likely to develop fine lines and crow's-feet and prone to sun damage than those with acidic skin.

Though it's rarer for skin to be overly acidic, the result is often nasty breakouts (even for those of us who rarely get a pimple). When skin deviates too far south of that magical 5.5 number, it is also stripped down to the point of being red, inflamed, and painful to touch.

Prolonged disturbance of the pH balance can lead to skin conditions such as dermatitis, eczema , and rosacea.

Factors Influencing the Acid Mantle

Many factors can interfere with the delicate balance of the skin's acid mantle, both externally and internally, including our diets. As we age, our skin becomes more acidic in response to our lifestyle and the environment. Everything that comes in contact with our skin (products, smoking, air, water, sun, pollution) can contribute to the breaking down of the acid mantle, disrupting the skin's ability to protect itself.

Cleansers
Most cleansers, including bars and detergent soaps, tend to be too alkaline for the skin, as they strip away natural oils causing dryness and irritation. Skin that is too alkaline can be more susceptible to acne because a certain level of acidity is needed to inhibit bacterial growth on the skin. You may have noticed that many cleansers and shampoos are now avoiding the use of sodium laureth sulfate, which has an approximate alkaline pH level of 10 and can be very drying and irritating to the skin. Choosing mild cleansers and toners that are slightly acidic (close to 5) will benefit all skin types in properly maintaining the acid mantle.

Acids
At the opposite side of the spectrum, skin treated with products that are overly acidic also can be problematic. They too can over-strip natural oils, which can temporarily disrupt the lipid barrier of the skin. Ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids, retinoic acid, beta hydroxy acids and amino fruit acids, if not used properly, can weaken the skin's natural defenses to bacterial infection and environmental damage. Most over-the-counter products are buffered, making them suitable for everyday use. However, it is still important to pay careful attention to your skin when using any acidic product. If your skin starts to look dry or red, if it becomes more sensitive, or if you notice an increase in breakouts, you may be using a product too strong for your skin, or you may be applying it too often.

Choosing Good-for-Your-Skin Oils & Moisturizers
As we age, the amount of oil or sebum naturally produced by our skin decreases, influencing the acid mantle and its ability to protect the skin. Using effective moisturizers helps rebuild this important barrier. Oils that work particularly well with the skin's natural oil secretions include jojoba, coconut, argan and olive oils.

Antioxidants & Sunscreens
Topical antioxidants (vitamins A, C, E, and green tea) are important in maintaining the acid mantle in two ways. First, they fortify the cells so they can function optimally and second, they protect the cells from environmental stresses and oxidation. Vitamin C in the form of l-ascorbic acid is acidic by nature and has a low pH, so while not considered a pH-balancing antioxidant, vitamin C formulations can be used safely and beneficially on the skin as long as they are not used at the same time as other acidic products. SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic is a serum based vitamin C that brightens the skin while preventing future damage. The daily use of sunscreen defends the acid mantle by shielding the skin cells from sun damage and increasing the skin's ability to protect itself. There is a large variety of sunscreens available for all skin types but it's important to remember that it should be applied daily, without fail, even on a cloudy day or not going outdoors, as you might be sitting close to a window and exposed to sunlight. .

Diets
Diet plays an important role in determining our internal and external pH levels. It is important to note that a food's acid or alkaline formation in the body is not the same as the pH of the food itself. In an interesting paradox, foods that are considered acidic before digestion (like lemons) become alkaline-forming in the body. Most animal products, which are alkaline prior to digestion, are considered acid-forming in the body. Our diets need more acidic so that they are more alkaline forming in the body and to avoid alkaline foods that are more acid-forming in the body. This means that an ideal diet consists of consuming an abundance of alkalizing foods (commonly known as the “alkaline diet”), such as, leafy green vegetables, citrus fruits, tomatoes, carrots and soybeans. Foods to avoid include meat, wheat, refined sugar and some processed food as these can significantly raise the acid levels in your body.

Equalizing Skin pH

Now that we can appreciate the health of your skin is directly linked to maintaining the right balance between acidity and alkalinity. Let us focus on how we should equalize our skin and it is relatively easy.

First, determine your skin's likely pH level by taking the quick quiz below and then learn how to get it back on track. All it takes is a few simple and inexpensive tweaks to your beauty routine and your diet.

Acid Test
Answer these questions to find out where you fall on the pH spectrum.

1. How does your skin feel after cleansing?
a) Soft and smooth
b) Tight and dry
c) Still slightly oily or not thoroughly clean

2. How often do you moisturize your face?
a) At least morning and evening
b) Once a day
c) Never

3. Has your skin become sensitive to products you regularly use including makeup and creams?
a) No, it feels normal, like always.
b) Once in a while
c) Yes. It seems like it reacts to everything I put on it lately.

4. How often does your skin have dry, flaky, rough patches?
a) Never
b) Sometimes
c) Usually

5. Do you notice that your skin looks duller and has more lines in the morning?
a) No
b) Yes, usually
c) It's a very rare occurrence.

6. Is your skin excessively oily and prone to breakouts (whereas it wasn't in the past)?
a) No
b) Occasionally
c) Yes

7. Does your skin often look red and feel irritated?
a) No
b) Skin stings only after applying products.
c) Yes

8. Does your skin look plump, moist, and dewy?
a) Almost always
b) Rarely
c) It's plump, but more greasy than dewy.

If you answered mostly b's, your skin's pH is. . .
Too high. Your chronic dryness and wrinkling likely mean your acid mantle is being dismantled—you're too alkaline. With its protective lipids removed, your skin is falling prey to bacteria, UV rays, and harsh ingredients. Take a close look at how (and how often) you're cleansing, scrubbing, and hydrating. You need to make sure that your skin can ward off the damaging factors that are making it look older than it should.

If you answered mostly a's, your skin's pH is. . .
Just right! Your skin (and it’s pH) live in a shiny, happy place not inhabited by premature aging and wrinkles. Having skin this good is no accident, so kudos to you for gold-star moisturizing and exfoliating regimen, and using the right products. Stay on the same course and you'll continue to glow.

If you answered mostly c's, your skin's pH is. . .
Too low. Your regular oiliness, breakouts, and sensitivity point to acid overload. Chances are, you're OD'ing on the peeling products (think acids) in an effort to sop up excess grease. And while this type of exfoliation can make for a healthy complexion, your skin is suffering from too much of a good thing. Your mission: Use products in moderation instead of abusing them (and your skin).

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